12 hot pieces from the world’s biggest horological fair – !

GENEVA – Buyers, journalists, influencers and industry insiders are gathering in Geneva, Switzerland, this week for Watches and Wonders 2025, the most prestigious event in the world of watchmaking.With a record 60 brands participating – up from 54 in 2024 – the fair, running until April 7, 2025, offers a first look at cutting-edge innovations and new releases from the world’s finest watchmakers.The event, however, unfolds amid significant economic headwinds. The lingering post-pandemic cost-of-living crisis and a slowdown in China’s luxury market have impacted the industry. According to recent figures from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, Swiss watch production dipped to a historic low of 15.3 million units in 2024 – a decline of 9.5 per cent from the previous year.Yet the Swiss watch industry is rallying, showcasing craftsmanship, innovation and heritage at the fair.Rolex, one of the industry’s giants, begins an exciting new chapter with the Land-Dweller. This standout model features an integrated Flat Jubilee bracelet and the ground-breaking calibre 7135 movement, boasting a newly patented escapement.Vacheron Constantin pushes horological boundaries with its Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, which has a record-breaking 41 complications. Not to be outdone, Bvlgari unveiled its Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, now officially the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch at an astonishing 1.85mm thick.Vintage revivals are also making waves. Cartier generated significant buzz by bringing back the Cartier Tank a Guichets, a rare and beloved model from the 1920s, now reimagined with a new movement. Piaget pays tribute to its heritage with Sixtie, a stylish new women’s watch collection inspired by the glamorous 1960s. Bvlgari continues its iconic legacy with the Serpenti Aeterna, a striking modern interpretation of its classic serpent design.In the first of a two-part series, The Straits Times highlights 12 of the most striking watches unveiled at 2025’s fair.Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller collectionDeveloped over seven years with 32 patent applications – 18 exclusive to this model – the Land-Dweller is inspired by the iconic Oysterquartz models of the 1970s.PHOTO: ROLEXRolex has taken the Watches and Wonders event by storm with the debut of its Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller collection. Offered in both 36mm and 50mm sizes, the striking line-up includes 10 references in Everose gold, platinum and steel. Developed over seven years with 32 patent applications – 18 exclusive to this model – the Land-Dweller is inspired by the iconic Oysterquartz models of the 1970s. It has a barrel-shaped case that is 20 per cent thinner than the Datejust and features brushed surfaces, polished bevels and a twinlock crown at three o’clock.The honeycomb dial motif – available in satin-finished steel and gold or an ice-blue sunray platinum edition – is new, complemented with luminescent hands and hour markers which emit a soft blue glow. Adding character are a fluted bezel and the Explorer-inspired numerals at six and nine o’clock.What has everyone talking is the new calibre 7135 movement with a high-frequency 5Hz escapement – called the Dynapulse – ensuring accuracy of -2/+2 seconds a day. Price: $21,800 to $168,000 Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HFLimited to 250 pieces, the Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF is the lightest watch in the collection’s history.PHOTO: CHOPARDLimited to 250 pieces, the Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF is the lightest watch in the collection’s history.The case, bezel and crown of the 41mm watch are crafted from ceramicised titanium. Enhanced through electro-plasma oxidation, this aerospace-grade titanium has a hardness of 1,000 Vickers, rivalling ceramic in scratch resistance while maintaining a sleek anthracite grey finish that resists fading. Vickers hardness is a method used to determine a material’s hardness.At its heart lies the COSC-certified Chopard 01.14-C movement, beating at an impressive 8Hz (57,600 vibrations an hour). This high-frequency movement makes it superbly accurate even under shocks, while the monocrystalline silicon components minimise friction and eliminate the need for lubrication. It also has a 60-hour power reserve, an achievement for high-frequency calibres.Inspired by an eagle’s iris, the dial has an arresting Pitch Black finish with vibrant orange accents on the second hand and minute track. The watch is paired with a rubber strap. Price: $35,700Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra TourbillonThe Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon sets a new record as the thinnest tourbillon watch produced.PHOTO: BVLGARIBvlgari has done it again. The Italian luxury brand has reclaimed its crown in ultra-thin watchmaking with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, a marvel of engineering that sets a new record as the thinnest tourbillon watch produced. Measuring just 1.85mm thick, this timepiece outpaces Piaget’s 2.0mm Altiplano Concept Tourbillon and redefines what is possible in horology.Bvlgari integrated the case, movement and dial into a single structure, eliminating traditional layers and achieving unprecedented slimness. The watch’s skeletonised design showcases intricate mechanics, including a flying tourbillon, through both the front and back.Crafted from advanced materials like tungsten carbide and bead-blasted titanium, it is powered by the manually wound BVF 900 calibre. Operating at 4Hz, it has a 42-hour power reserve, amazing for a watch so thin. Price: $987,000Cartier Tank a GuichetsThe new collection of Tank a Guichets is powered by the hand-wound calibre 9755 MC movement, known for its jumping hour and dragging minute function.PHOTO: CARTIEROriginally introduced in 1928, the Tank a Guichets is one of Cartier’s most elusive creations. The design is radical, with a sleek metal casing and tiny apertures displaying the time.Fewer than 400 of the watch were produced during its initial run, with bespoke designs reserved for the French maison’s most famous clients, like the late American jazz maestro Duke Ellington. Since then, Cartier has released the model only twice – in 1997 for its 150th anniversary (150 platinum pieces) and again in 2005 (100 rose gold pieces). Coveted by collectors, vintage Guichets regularly fetch six-figure sums at auction – one sold for US$460,000 (S$612,000) in 2024. It has now reappeared and the new line-up includes yellow gold, rose gold and platinum versions faithful to the original design, plus a limited edition of 200 pieces with quirky diagonal apertures. They are powered by the hand-wound calibre 9755 MC movement, specifically designed for these watches and known for its jumping hour and dragging minute function. Price: $69,000 to $88,000Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A SLGB001 and SLGB003Inspired by Japan’s frosty Kirigamine Highlands near Shinshu Watch Studio, the dials of Grand Seiko’s SLGB001 and SLGB003 models evoke icy forests with intricate textures. PHOTO: GRAND SEIKOGrand Seiko’s Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A SLGB001 and SLGB003 models are compact 37mm timepieces which boast the ground-breaking Calibre 9RB2 movement. With an astounding annual accuracy of +/- 20 seconds, it is the most precise mainspring-powered movement in the world. The movement also boasts a 72-hour power reserve and features a regulation switch for fine-tuning during servicing.Inspired by Japan’s frosty Kirigamine Highlands near the brand’s Shinshu Watch Studio, the dials evoke icy forests with intricate textures. The platinum SLGB001 – which is limited to 80 pieces – features a light-blue dial paired with a crocodile strap, while the titanium SLGB003 offers a bluish-green dial with a matching bracelet and micro-adjustment clasp. Price: $51,700 (platinum) and $14,500 (titanium)Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001The Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001 combines a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar.PHOTO: PATEK PHILIPPEOriginally unveiled in platinum during the 2023 Watch Art Tokyo Grand Exhibition, the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001 masterpiece now joins Patek Philippe’s regular collection in a sleek white-gold case.The 42mm watch – which is 17.71mm thick – combines a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph (with two patented mechanisms) and an instantaneous perpetual calendar.The advanced R CHR 27 PS QI calibre, building upon the impressive Triple Complication Reference 5208 introduced in 2011, comprises 799 components and incorporates ground-breaking innovations, including two newly patented mechanisms specifically engineered to enhance energy efficiency. They include an anti-backlash wheel, designed to eliminate friction at the chronograph clutch, and an isolation system which completely halts the energy consumption for the split-seconds mechanism when stopped.Meanwhile, the instantaneous perpetual calendar – with artfully arranged day, date and month apertures – seamlessly shifts calendar indications at an ultra-fast 30 milliseconds. Quite the looker, the watch has an ice-blue sunburst dial complemented with white-gold dauphine hands and faceted markers. Price: $1,791,700A. Lange & Sohne 1815A. Lange & Sohne’s new, compact version of its classic 1815 timepiece measures just 34mm in diameter and 6.4mm in height.PHOTO: A. LANGE & SOHNEA. Lange & Sohne’s new, compact version of its classic 1815 timepiece measures just 34mm in diameter and 6.4mm in height.The smallest 1815 made is available in pink or white gold, paired with a deep-blue solid silver dial. The design remains quintessentially 1815, featuring Arabic numerals, a railway minute track and a recessed subsidiary seconds dial with azurage texture. Inside, the new manually wound Calibre L152.1 powers the watch. This movement – Lange’s 75th manufacture calibre – delivers an impressive 72-hour power reserve despite its smaller size. It retains hallmark features like a German silver three-quarter plate, hand-engraved balance cock and blued screws, all visible through the sapphire caseback. Price: On requestTudor Black Bay 58 (Burgundy)Tudor’s new addition to its Black Bay 58 line-up is a show-stopping burgundy model, with a rich, cherry-red dial and matching bezel.PHOTO: TUDORTudor’s new addition to its Black Bay 58 line-up is a show-stopping burgundy model, with a rich, cherry-red dial and matching bezel.Inspired by a prototype Tudor Submariner from the 1990s, this 39mm watch retains the Black Bay 58’s signature proportions and robust 200m water resistance.The brand also offers, for the first time, a five-link steel bracelet alongside its familiar three-link riveted bracelet and a cut-to-size rubber strap – all featuring the brand’s adjustable “T-fit” clasp for on-the-go comfort.Under the hood, this Black Bay 58 marks another milestone. It is the first three-hand model in the series to earn Metas Master Chronometer certification. Powered by the MT5400-U calibre, it boasts impressive precision (0/+5 seconds a day), anti-magnetic properties and COSC certification.Price: $6,070 to $6,540 Tag Heuer’s Formula One Solargraph CollectionTag Heuer’s Formula One Solargraph collection pays homage to the brand’s iconic 1990s designs and its historic ties to Formula One.PHOTO: TAG HEUERTag Heuer’s Formula One Solargraph collection pays homage to the brand’s iconic 1990s designs and its historic ties to Formula One. This vibrant nine-piece line-up reimagines the original’s playful spirit with contemporary updates, including a larger 38mm case size, sleek materials and solar-powered quartz movements.The cases come in matt sandblasted stainless steel, black diamond-like carbon, or bold red and blue TH-Polylight – a lightweight, bio-based material. The flared lugs and crenellated bezels nod to the original design, but refined details like engraved bezels and polished indices elevate the look. At just 9.9mm thick with a compact lug-to-lug span of 45.2mm, these watches are powered by the TH50-00 light-powered quartz movement (developed with Citizen’s La Joux-Perret). They charge fully in sunlight within minutes, run for up to 10 months and apparently can last up to 15 years without servicing.The collection – with strap options including colourful silicone rubber or steel bracelets – will be launched alongside Formula One Grand Prix events from May to October 2025. Price: $2,550 to $2,650Chanel J12 Bleu CollectionThe nine models in Chanel’s J12 Bleu collection are crafted from high-resistance matt Bleu ceramic.PHOTO: CHANELChanel is celebrating the 25th birthday of its iconic J12 watch with a limited-edition J12 Bleu collection.The nine models are crafted from high-resistance matt Bleu ceramic – an arresting hue perfected over five years of research at Chanel’s La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture. With case sizes ranging from 28mm to 42mm, they are mostly powered by automatic movements, though highlights include the quartz-driven 28mm J12 Bleu and two manual-winding marvels: the J12 Diamond Bleu Tourbillon and the J12 Bleu X-ray. Especially noteworthy is the Diamond Bleu Tourbillon with its flying tourbillon, diamond-set cage and sapphire crystal dial. There is also the J12 Bleu X-Ray, which dazzles with its transparent Bleu sapphire crystal case, a follow-up to 2024’s pink iteration. There are intricate details across the collection, including laser-cut ceramic bezels mimicking baguette settings, diamond-studded crowns and sapphire accents. Price: $15,950 to $917,000; price upon request for the J12 Bleu X-RayHublot Big Bang Anniversary Limited EditionsEach watch in the Hublot Big Bang Anniversary Limited Editions collection flaunts hallmark features like layered case construction, pinched lugs and a knurled bezel edge while incorporating modern updates.PHOTO: HUBLOTAt Watches and Wonders 2025, Hublot is marking the 20th anniversary of its iconic Big Bang series with a collection of Big Bang Anniversary Limited Editions.The five models – Titanium Ceramic, King Gold Ceramic, Red Magic, All Black and Full Magic Gold – blend the design of the original Big Bang with the cutting-edge advancements of the Big Bang Unico.Each watch flaunts hallmark features like layered case construction, pinched lugs and a knurled bezel edge, while incorporating modern updates. Carbon-patterned dials with engraved motifs and riveted numerals now glow with Super-LumiNova, while structured rubber straps pay homage to the original, but include Hublot’s One-Click strap-change system.The Titanium Ceramic and King Gold Ceramic editions channel Hublot’s Art of Fusion ethos with polished bezels, red-accented chronographs and lozenge-patterned straps. Limited to 500 and 250 pieces respectively, these models are powered by the Unico flyback chronograph calibre with commemorative gold oscillating weights.Price: $29,200 to $57,000Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute RepeaterThe reverse side of the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater reveals an openworked view of the new Calibre 953, with cantilevered indices hovering over intricate mechanics.PHOTO: JAEGER LE-COULTRELimited to 30 pieces, the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater has an 18K pink gold case measuring 51.1mm by 31mm by 12.6mm thick. The front dial is handsome, with pink gold indices and hands resting atop a teal guilloche pattern brought to life through flinque enamelling.The magic, however, begins when it is flipped over. The reverse side reveals an openworked view of the new Calibre 953, with cantilevered indices hovering over intricate mechanics. Hints of blue on the hammers, bridges and minute track add flair to this mechanical spectacle.A technical tour de force, the manually wound movement features Jaeger-LeCoultre’s trebuchet hammers, crystal gongs and a silence interval regulator for its enchanting chime. Boasting seven patents, it has 462 components, a 48-hour power reserve and a 4Hz beat rate. Price: $435,000Join ST’s Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.